I confess that I’ve spent half of Holy Friday cooking. I actually don’t know whether that’s considered a sin by our Christian authorities (I guess so). To defend myself, I would argue that it was all about fish. I even created an original dish of my own!
I’ve been out of Paris over the week-end, we’ve visited a dog breeder’s farm in the Sologne region to find us a new flat coated retriever but our short trip happened to turn into a culinary excursion, too. We roamed close to Aubigny-sur-Nèr, that’s very close to the banks of the Loire, so close, in fact, that we had to fight some inundations on the way.
…and yet not that weird when you chop them in tiny cubes, mix them with ground pork, ginger, spring onions, soy sauce, sesame oil and some tapioca starch – and fabricate your own filling for delicious dim sums. Still, I’ve always wondered how to use them in the kitchen and now I’ve even found fresh ones at a Chinese grocery store in the Marais. When I check the web, I find apéro chestnuts wrapped and oven-baked in a slice of bacon, […]
Have you ever tried to wrap a beef fillet in a salt crust and bake it in the oven? If not, I highly recommend doing it. First of all, it’s a nerve-wrecking adventure, second, if you get it right, you’ll be able to serve a world-class meal: meat so tender and regularly cooked that you won’t believe it; a texture so soft and yet firm that you’d need to invent new words for describing it; a roast so spectacular that […]
Crisp on the outside, tender on the inside – everybody loves roast chicken but it’s a trickier task than many home cooks think. In the end it all depends on the correct positioning of the bird during the cooking process. I know a lot of people who simply put their chicken on the back, on a tray, in the hot oven and wait for an hour. Tsts…can’t work. The most probable result will be: the breast (or “white meat”, as our […]
…make a beautiful dish when treated with respect and care. Be humble! These mushrooms are a precious gift, they need your full attention. In your cookbooks you’ll find many highly contradictory recommendations on how to cook them. I’d say, frankly, that most recipes have got it wrong. To me, there’s only one question when it comes to preparing porcini: will I use thyme or origan? The other ingredients I use are thus: excellent olive oil, lemon juice, thyme/origan, sea salt, […]
…is easy-to-do and goes with all kinds of cold cuts and morsels. Serve it with a (home-made) foie gras, with some ham, some chicken breast or a thinly sliced pork roast; it makes a great companion for hard mountain cheeses like the beautiful Ossau-Iraty from the French Basque region or for soft blue cheeses like Roquefort or Italian Gorgonzola or the very British Stilton. In fact, play around with it – who knows which combinations you will come up with. […]
Just in case that you have missed it: the fishing season for scallops has been opened officially this week – since Monday the yellow-coated heroes are out on the sea for you in Normandy, in Brittany to get aboard what the French so nicely call coquilles St. Jacques. For the fishermen, scallops mean pure money. In Normandy, a fishermen told me recently, that the precious shellfish makes almost 60 percent of his yearly income. For us consumers, scallops stand for pure, […]
…in order to peel them, please! When I check my recipe books for “how to peel tomatoes” I find a lot of bad advice and many wrong suggestions. “Sink them into boiling water for 10 minutes” – Jesus Christ! After that they’ll have a consistency of slubbery sludge. You want to peel a tomato? Well, just use your good old kettle or one of these fancier electric ones (coming with built-in filters nowadays). Here’s how I do it, it’s a […]