I like wrapping, rolling, packaging food – it brings love and elegance to your table. Here, beetroot leaves make a perfect coating for fish fillets topped with mushroom duxelles. Just excellent!
On the markets of Paris, chanterelles are sold under the name girolles and both are quite different kinds of mushroom. The latter are firm and fleshy with thick stems, almost golden and snow-white on the inside, the former are softer, skinny guys, more on the brownish side and clearly less classy. A nice pan of girolles counts among the great pleasures of this late summer/early fall season. I used a chunk of the excellent pancetta I drove home from Italy to spice up […]
Summer times are tomato times, at least in Europe where the “paradise apples”, as the Austrians say, are really good only between June and late August. But then they’re really good – and you can create simple, yet delicious dishes without limits.
Asparagus makes an excellent salad, the white or green stalks are great when pan-fried or grilled, steaming would be a good idea – but I cook them à l’anglaise, as the French say when they mean: in water. It’s fast food but it’s great.
The street markets in Paris will ruin me sooner or later, financially. But this morning, I couldn’t resist to a perfect daurade that I turned into a simple and noble French dish.
serves 4 (as a starter, in Europe) 1 cup lentils (look for small French lentils, it won’t work otherwise, “Le Puy” would be perfect) 1 carrot, chopped into (small!) cubes 1/2 onion 2 cloves 1 bay leave 1 cinnamon stick salt, pepper for the vinaigrette, and to finish the salad: 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard salt, pepper, sugar 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion 1 tablespoon finely chopped celery stalk 1 tablespoon finely chopped tomato flesh (seeds removed) (good) vinegar (white wine, […]
I’ve heard a renowned French cook say recently that it was much harder to prepare high-class dishes only with vegetables. I thought he actually wanted to say: any high price for vegetarian food was justified. The three star chefs of Paris put price tags on carrot or celery salads nowadays that are nothing but shocking. Once in a Parisian gourmet temple, don’t be surprised to get a platter of raw vegetables for, say, 39 Euros (50 US$). You might find […]
…make a beautiful dish when treated with respect and care. Be humble! These mushrooms are a precious gift, they need your full attention. In your cookbooks you’ll find many highly contradictory recommendations on how to cook them. I’d say, frankly, that most recipes have got it wrong. To me, there’s only one question when it comes to preparing porcini: will I use thyme or origan? The other ingredients I use are thus: excellent olive oil, lemon juice, thyme/origan, sea salt, […]