I like wrapping, rolling, packaging food – it brings love and elegance to your table. Take this example: large beetroot and other leaves are filled with a nicely cut fish fillet topped by what the French invented as duxelles, the famously tasty puree of diced and slowly sautéed mushrooms…a real delight. Remember: all mushrooms love thyme (and pepper!). And the leaves are softened (for a minute or so) in boiling salt water. All of the rest, the spices, the herbs, some mustard maybe, are left to your inspiration and mood. You could think of pan-frying the parcels before serving; but steamed like dim sum, they’re just as excellent. For the wine? I’d suggest a hearty white from the Rhone valley. Enjoy!