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Monthly Archives: October 2010

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Seafood feasts…

October 25, 2010 by Ullrich

…require substantial investments, unfortunately, but then there are hardly meals more satisfying, more festive, more splendid. In Paris, you’ll go Rive Gauche to hunt down your perfect, wild seafood and sooner or later you’ll end up buying your fish and shellfish at Poissonnerie du Dome close to Tour Montparnasse where they sell fare that is normally reserved to the best restaurants in town. Over the weekend I had such a feast, consisting of a giant spider crab, oysters and the […]

Categories: good food, Paris, seafood • Tags: Food, France, recipes

1

Paris s’eveille…

October 18, 2010 by Ullrich

…is a classic song that you might know, if not, here’s a flashy 1970ies video version featuring Jacques Dutronc (who seems to have eaten psychedelic mushrooms at the time of the recording, anyway)…WELL, THIS IS NO LONGER TRUE, access to the video was blocked and I don’t know why, actually. Anyway, here’s a link to another youtube version. I had a taxi ride to the airport this morning and, passing by Avenue Marx Dormoy, some hero butchers unloaded their fare. […]

Categories: hero butchers, poetry, Whatever Works • Tags: Food, Paris, Poetry

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Weird water chestnuts…

October 15, 2010 by Ullrich

…and yet not that weird when you chop them in tiny cubes, mix them with ground pork, ginger, spring onions, soy sauce, sesame oil and some tapioca starch – and fabricate your own filling for delicious dim sums. Still, I’ve always wondered how to use them in the kitchen and now I’ve even found fresh ones at a Chinese grocery store in the Marais. When I check the web, I find apéro chestnuts wrapped and oven-baked in a slice of bacon, […]

Categories: Whatever Works, World • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

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Beef skills

October 14, 2010 by Ullrich

Have you ever tried to wrap a beef fillet in a salt crust and bake it in the oven? If not, I highly recommend doing it. First of all, it’s a nerve-wrecking adventure, second, if you get it right, you’ll be able to serve a world-class meal: meat so tender and regularly cooked that you won’t believe it; a texture so soft and yet firm that you’d need to invent new words for describing it; a roast so spectacular that […]

Categories: Dinner, good food, hero butchers, signature dish, skills • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

5

Chicken skills

October 13, 2010 by Ullrich

Crisp on the outside, tender on the inside – everybody loves roast chicken but it’s a trickier task than many home cooks think. In the end it all depends on the correct positioning of the bird during the cooking process. I know a lot of people who simply put their chicken on the back, on a tray, in the hot oven and wait for an hour. Tsts…can’t work. The most probable result will be: the breast (or “white meat”, as our […]

Categories: chefs, Dinner, France, hero butchers, skills • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

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Porcini, ceps, cèpes

October 12, 2010 by Ullrich

…make a beautiful dish when treated with respect and care. Be humble! These mushrooms are a precious gift, they need your full attention. In your cookbooks you’ll find many highly contradictory recommendations on how to cook them. I’d say, frankly, that most recipes have got it wrong. To me, there’s only one question when it comes to preparing porcini: will I use thyme or origan? The other ingredients I use are thus: excellent olive oil, lemon juice, thyme/origan, sea salt, […]

Categories: good food, nature, skills, Whatever Works • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

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A party without proof…

October 11, 2010 by Ullrich

…that’s what I sadly have to offer today. Had around 40 friends at home to celebrate on Saturday, we’ve killed 18 bottles of champagne, 12 bottles of Pic St. Loup, 6 bottles of Pommard, we’ve been eating lots of sushi, a beef fillet cooked in a salt crust, a real foie gras with fig chutney, a huge pot of Thai-style chicken, a tray of gratinated daurades (guiltheads), a big French cheese selection complete with Beaufort, Camembert de Normandie, Epoisses, Selles-sur-Cher, […]

Categories: Paris, poetry, Whatever Works • Tags: Food, recipes

2

Pepper parade

October 8, 2010 by Ullrich

Not much to say about it, actually. Just liked the colours, the reflections, the organic, voluptuous shapes. Read Michael Pollan’s books and take a closer look at food, representing nature at its best. And have a good day!

Categories: Whatever Works • Tags: Food

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Fig chutney…

October 7, 2010 by Ullrich

…is easy-to-do and goes with all kinds of cold cuts and morsels. Serve it with a (home-made) foie gras, with some ham, some chicken breast or a thinly sliced pork roast; it makes a great companion for hard mountain cheeses like the beautiful Ossau-Iraty from the French Basque region or for soft blue cheeses like Roquefort or Italian Gorgonzola or the very British Stilton. In fact, play around with it – who knows which combinations you will come up with. […]

Categories: Apéro, good food, signature dish, Snack, Whatever Works, World • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

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Scallop times are here again!

October 6, 2010 by Ullrich

Just in case that you have missed it: the fishing season for scallops has been opened officially this week – since Monday the yellow-coated heroes are out on the sea for you in Normandy, in Brittany to get aboard what the French so nicely call coquilles St. Jacques. For the fishermen, scallops mean pure money. In Normandy, a fishermen told me recently, that the precious shellfish makes almost 60 percent of his yearly income. For us consumers, scallops stand for pure, […]

Categories: France, good food, seafood, skills • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

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A “canard” is not a duck…

October 5, 2010 by Ullrich

…it’s so much more than that, at least in France. In this lovely country of mine, generic terms don’t mean anything when it comes to good food. A duck – might be a well-fed bird from Nantes or a fleshier brother from Rouen or Challans. You will find the noble Canard de Bresse, raised and pampered like a prince (although it’s not part of the world-famous poultry AOC). There’s ducks blanc de l’Allier or de Bourbourg or de Vouillé, ducks […]

Categories: France, good food, hero butchers • Tags: Duck, Food, recipes

2

The homeland of rustic pleasures…

October 3, 2010 by Ullrich

…is called Normandy, rich beyond belief: In front of you – the salty sea full of fish and mussels, crab and oysters. In your back – le bocage, fat meadows populated by outstanding cattle, lined with apple and plum trees and farm houses dating back to ancient times that stand along rivers where cream and butter are flowing. Yes, it’s true: weather is rough out there. But life can be very sweet. You start your day with some buttered baguette, […]

Categories: Bread, Breakfast, Dinner, good food, nature, seafood, signature dish • Tags: Food, France, Normandy, recipes

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