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Monthly Archives: September 2010

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French Classics: beef stew

September 30, 2010 by Ullrich

Ragout, Daube, call it what you want – but take beef cheeks, if you can. I adore this kind of meat which is not highly regarded in a world where everybody goes for the so-called “noble” parts like steaks or fillets, and quick pan-frying or wok-ing is all we’ve still got time for. Yet the boeuf à braiser, as they call it in France, will take more time and bring greater pleasures, if you treat it right, with care, and […]

Categories: Dinner, good food, hero butchers, signature dish • Tags: Food, recipes

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Automn pleasures come again…

September 29, 2010 by Ullrich

…soon the fish vendors here will display their still lives made of scallops in lovely shells, the French oysters reach their peak and the heavier fare returns to all tables. I had a first seasonal feast these days while celebrating the 80th birthday of good, old George, we were a happy dozen around the big table and our friend Olivier prepared a cold buffet, containing oysters and crabs, shrimp and tarts and a very nice lentil salad (mixed with mango!). […]

Categories: Dinner, good food, poetry, seafood • Tags: Food, recipes

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Are you sweet or salty?

September 28, 2010 by Ullrich

I don’t know about your experiences but I’ve found out in life that most cooks, professionals or amateurs, have a clear preference when it comes to the above question. In many restaurants you can witness the consequences: Quite often, a talented pâtissier decides to open his own shop, just to learn that he can’t really deal with beef and lamb and salty things. Same is true the other way round: Being a great rôtisseur doesn’t mean necessarily that you can […]

Categories: chefs, Dessert, signature dish, Whatever Works • Tags: Food, Pastry, recipes

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French Classics: Parfait

September 25, 2010 by Ullrich

A slice of fresh bread spread with a rich, creamy, comforting liver paté can make a beautiful supper as long as you avoid the pre-packed “French” supermarket fare. Just do it yourself! It’s easy, it’s ten times better and it makes you feel good and skilled. Here’s a perfect home-made Parfait de foies de volaille: What do you need? Here’s your shopping list: 300 gr. chicken liver, 150 gr. best salted butter (demi-sel), 2 shallots (or 1 white onion), 2 cl Cognac […]

Categories: Apéro, good food, signature dish, skills, Snack • Tags: Food, France, recipes

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Spinach is good for you…

September 24, 2010 by Ullrich

…as long as you wash and drain it properly, two times, three times, get rid of the sand! In France, you can buy fresh, young baby leaves at every corner, and they are particularly delicious. Keep it simple: Use some oil (or butter), some garlic, some shallots, then add the leaves (without drying them), some salt and pepper (nutmeg fits well or ground coriander) – and only a couple of minutes later you’re ready to go. This one’s nice, too: yesterday, […]

Categories: Dinner, good food, Lunch • Tags: Food, recipes, Spinach

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Stop cooking tomatoes…

September 23, 2010 by Ullrich

…in order to peel them, please! When I check my recipe books for “how to peel tomatoes” I find a lot of bad advice and many wrong suggestions. “Sink them into boiling water for 10 minutes” – Jesus Christ! After that they’ll have a consistency of slubbery sludge. You want to peel a tomato? Well, just use your good old kettle or one of these fancier electric ones (coming with built-in filters nowadays). Here’s how I do it, it’s a […]

Categories: skills • Tags: Cooking Skills, Food, recipes

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The “white tuna” of Kabul…

September 16, 2010 by Ullrich

I know this might be a bit confusing but my work life as a world affairs reporter for SPIEGEL magazine makes me drive on the fast lane from time to time. Yes, I’ve been to Oslo two days ago, and after that in Brussels, yet since this morning I’m back to Kabul, flying in via Frankfurt overnight. It’s my fourth time in this country named Afghanistan and I will try to find out whether the situation here has further deteriorated, […]

Categories: Lunch, poetry, seafood, signature dish, Whatever Works, World • Tags: Fish, Food, Kabul

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“Trancher Entrecôte”…in Oslo?

September 13, 2010 by Ullrich

Yes, and ten times: yes! This is an experience, a real one, and I bow to Marcus Jacobsen who is the head chef up there at Thorvald Meyers gate 78 in Oslo, close to the quite dodgy city centre of the Norwegian capital. If you call yourself a foodie, well then, book a flight to Norway just to eat there: it’s worth it, it’s special, it’s good. There’s not much choice though once you’re there. The menu consists of one […]

Categories: chefs, Dinner, good food, hero butchers, World • Tags: Food, Norway, Politics

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Picturesque Oslo…

September 12, 2010 by Ullrich

…is offering weird views when you’re high up on one of the hotel towers surrounding the Norwegian capital. I had dinner tonight (or let’s say: a cocktail dinatoire!) on the 34th floor of the Radisson Blu Plaza where an international conference about world finance and job creation unfolds. You think I’m kidding, don’t you? But it’s true! The finance minister of Norway gave a welcome speech, a lot of policy celebrities were wandering around, then the buffet was open – […]

Categories: Dinner, Snack, Whatever Works, World • Tags: Finger Food, Food, Norway

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It’s mackerel time again…

September 11, 2010 by Ullrich

…yes, I do love this fish and I will continue bombarding you with recipes because mackerel are cheap, healthy, delicious and so far I haven’t read about problems concerning stocks and over-fishing. Seems that it still exists in abundance – and that alone is a good reason to have it. This time: rubbed with fine sea salt and marinated for a couple of minutes with lemon juice (not longer!), then coated with flour (not much), then fried in a pan. Really […]

Categories: good food, seafood • Tags: Fish, Food

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VIDEO: A full kitchen day in 3 minutes…

September 10, 2010 by Ullrich

…makes a pretty edgy video as you will see. I found the clip thanks to a facebook friend’s recommendation and I thought you might like it, too. What you see is Alinea restaurant in Chicago, where young chef Grant Achatz is doing quite spectacular things with food. He has won so many awards in recent times, earned highest rankings and the food critics are all kneeling down, that he must do something right. Anyway: here’s a quick look behind the […]

Categories: chefs, poetry, World • Tags: Chefs, Culture, Food

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I hate fast food…

September 9, 2010 by Ullrich

…as long as it’s not done by yourself. I don’t know where you live but here in Europe there’s packaged and pre-seasoned frozen vegetables on every supermarket shelf (and on far too many tables). I mean, I’m not surprised that children in Britain are raised with a “Field Fresh country mix” served by BirdsEye or with Tesco’s “Farmhouse mixed vegetables”. I’m pretty aware that the Germans prefer Iglo’s “Französische Pfanne” or a pseudo-hearty “Bauern-Pfanne” to chopping some greens themselves. But […]

Categories: malbouffe, Whatever Works • Tags: Culture, Fast Food, Food

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