Fruit that feel like summer…

…were served at Le Pamphlet today, an excellent resto-bistro in the somewhat hidden Rue Debelleyme in Paris. I see the chef Alain Carrère in the streets here a lot, he’s a generous man who likes eating himself, obviously, every now and then he’s walking a silly little dog and they make a lovely couple.

Today, I offered myself lunch at his place to reward myself for a pretty heavy work shift and I was pleased, as always, by the skills of this cook. He has a real sense of what the Japanese call umami, a feeling for savoriness that quite perfectly corresponds to my own. Carrère prepares classic dishes, he’s not afraid of kidneys or quails, and quite often he adds a Southern twist to his creations. He’s playing confidently with basic recipes like salade niçoise or beef fillet Rossini, he masters the art of risotto, he’s a real sauce giant, he keeps his product standards at highest levels, and so I would say: he’s just good, and sometimes great even (and I selfishly hope that the Michelin guys will go on ignoring his talents).

Fruit basket on a plate: pretty dessert at "Le Pamphlet".

Weird though that I can’t agree with many comments you can find on the web about how lovely and enchanting the service and the overall ambience were at Le Pamphlet. I can’t find this, I always feel a bit uneasy, actually, when dealing with the somewhat brittle waitresses and I don’t like the décor too much. Yet who cares, as long as the chef knows what he’s doing. For 35 Euros (42 US$) for a three-course-meal that’s the least you can expect? Well, I could show you places in Paris where you get far worse food for much higher prices.


  1. Georg

    Thanks to your wonderful blog my two days in Paris will be rather busy but delicious. But I have to admit that something like this was my plan from the outset.

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