In Paris, Goldenberg meant delicatessen once…

…now the world-famous food shop and restaurant in Rue des Rosiers has turned into yet another fashion boutique. A noisy local initiative, defending the character of the Jewish quartier here, marched the streets in protest but in vain. Gone are the Eastern style sweet-and-sour herrings, the Polish sausages, the onion cakes and all gefillte fish. More is lost: when you walk down Rue des Rosiers today, you have a feeling that Goldenberg formed the gravitation center of this neighbourhood. Now, all the other shops and Jewish eateries look somewhat cheap, just touristic, no longer real. That’s sad, actually.

Once upon a time in the Marais...

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