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Monthly Archives: February 2010

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Eating fish in the Alps…

February 28, 2010 by Ullrich

…doesn’t really make sense, don’t you think? It’s the when-in-Rome-thing. Why would you want to eat, say, oysters on a snowy mountain summit? While you have a perfect local cheese at hand? Or a chunk of smoked bacon from a century-old supplier close by? Or some crude ham dried in the fresh air 1500 meters above sea level? Well, I tell you why: if you only stick to local products in a region like French Savoy, you’ll gain ten pounds […]

Categories: Dinner, Savoy, seafood, Whatever Works

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Savoy is a region, not a hotel…

February 27, 2010 by Ullrich

…even if you haven’t heard about it yet. I’ve arrived here tonight, in lovely Les Saisies, a village very close to the Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain, and I will spend a week here skiing – and eating, of course. This is the land of Beaufort and Reblochon, just to mention two fabulous cheeses, there’s some decent wine to drink, some original saucissons to chew. Tonight, I was happily taking pictures during dinner already – just to learn back in my […]

Categories: Dinner, Savoy, Whatever Works

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You don’t know anything about butter…

February 26, 2010 by Ullrich

…until you have tasted the grand Beurre Bordier by Jean-Yves Bordier. He’s a master of his art, a celebrity amongst France’s foodlovers, a Brittany based supplier of the best chefs throughout the country – and with reason. His butter has nothing in common with the industrial made bricks of fat you normally find in your supermarket. Each of Bordier’s pieces is an artefact, a product of refined handicraft, the result of labour based on tradition and century-old experience. Find out […]

Categories: good food, skills, Whatever Works • Tags: Beurre Bordier

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Sorry, “Sushishop”, I’m not convinced…

February 25, 2010 by Ullrich

…although I already had some nice morsels from your take away menu every now and then. You don’t know Sushishop? Well, don’t bother. It’s just another sushi chain in France, yet a very active one. Right now they try to catch costumers’ attention with a huge advertising campaign in many newspapers claiming that they, at Sushishop‘s, would only use a politically correct type of tuna. Here’s how it looks (they even spam their costumers with that): “This is not red […]

Categories: Whatever Works

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Here comes the sun…

February 24, 2010 by Ullrich

…with these little darlings called Rouget, or Rouget Barbet. It’s a great fish from Mediterranean shores and makes a great remedy against any sign of a winter depression. These guys love olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic, they are ready to be grilled, oven-roasted, pan fried but whatever you choose, they will never lose their very special character and good taste. Wanna try? Here’s a good basic way to prepare them: Get the rouget fillets from the bones. Mix 2 tablespoons […]

Categories: Apéro, Dinner, good food, Lunch, seafood

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Here’s to a memorable bottle…

February 23, 2010 by Ullrich

…that made my evening complete yesterday: a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel 2004, a dark, powerful, convincing wine that helped me survive the endless broadcasts from olympic Vancouver. Wine Critics talk about a nose of ripe cherries or red berries, about wild herbs and you name it, they say this wine was fleshy yet fresh “in the mouth”, tasting like tobacco, vanilla, containing “new world flavours” and you know what? I have no idea what they’re talking about. There’s not a […]

Categories: Drinks

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Making your own bread in Paris…

February 22, 2010 by Ullrich

…is ridiculous given the fact that you’re surrounded by really skilled, highly professional bakers. In my neighbourhood, a dozen or so independent boulangers are working night and day to serve you well, producing fantastic baguettes, great pains au levain, boules de campagne, normandines or pains briard, pavés du Marais, you name it. But – try to find a rustic, less refined loaf, something real, gray and not white that goes well with a slice of smoked salmon or what the Germans […]

Categories: poetry, skills, Whatever Works

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In Paris, all about Schmid means…

February 21, 2010 by Ullrich

…all about Alsace. You just walk out of beautiful Gare de l’Est in the 10th arrondissement, cross the street and you’re there: welcome to Schmid’s butcher boutique, specialités d’Alsace depuis 1904. Schmid has no website (at least I don’t find any), no fan page on Facebook, no twitter identity. Schmid belongs to the good old analogue world, where food wasn’t light but tasty. For sale are sausages of all kinds, a dozen variations or so, you’ll find rare pork cuts, […]

Categories: good food, hero butchers, Whatever Works

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Sucré, salé, everything’s good at Kluger’s…

February 20, 2010 by Ullrich

…a small, modern, recently opened canteen situated on the fringe of the Marais in the easy-to-miss Rue de Forez. The full name is Tartes Kluger which makes it an easy guess what you will find here: tarts, yes, magnificent cakes made of peas and thyme, beans and nuts, more classic pieces like a  jambon-fromage-béchamel variation, and there’s sweet things, too. I didn’t have any of them but I saw people around me shovelling in great looking chunks of chocolate and […]

Categories: good food, Lunch, signature dish • Tags: Tartes Kluger

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Cutting fish? Try THIS at home…

February 19, 2010 by Ullrich

…once you have, for instance, 200 people or so for dinner. I know, I know, the following video hasn’t much to do with Paris or French food or whatever works on this blog normally. Yet it is an amazing document and I had to pass it on to you. It’s about the skills of real professionals – and if your pots and pans aren’t big enough – don’t blame it on this man. He’s just doing his job.

Categories: seafood, skills, Whatever Works

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Take cover, it’s Quick burgers everywhere…

February 18, 2010 by Ullrich

…since the group has announced to become, well, sort of religious. In some of the fast food chain’s branches, in Argenteuil near Paris for example, they switch to only selling halal beef in the future. What is halal? It’s the muslim way of choosing, slaughtering, handling meat, quite similar to what the jews call kosher. Why would Quick go halal? Easy answer: to attract even more muslim clients or those of Arab origin. What’s the problem? That the French government […]

Categories: malbouffe, Whatever Works • Tags: Halal Quick

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“Très correct” means good-to-go in Paris…

February 17, 2010 by Ullrich

…and it’s a good description of Le Petit Marché, a small bistro in the even smaller Rue de Béarn right behind the very famous Place des Vosges. During lunchtime and dinner, it’s a place so packed that you can hardly breathe. But once settled down you’re enjoying almost a cliché of how Paris should taste and feel. The lady next to you? A Polish immigrant discussing art projects. The two guys to the right? Blabbing about fashion. The waiter spilling some sauce […]

Categories: Lunch, Paris

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